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April, 2010 - Issue 39

Power Fibers is published in Adobe Acrobat format.  To view the magazine, you must download the Adobe Acrobat Reader.  You can get it here.

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The April, 2010 issue of Power Fibers contains:


BahnPower Beveling Mill
(By Scott Bahn)

Every year since I started making rods I take some time in the spring and summer months to take on a project to update something in my rod making shop to help make the job easier and more efficient. This year was no different. In working for a contract manufacturer in the electronics industry as a Costing Project Manager, it has been ingrained in my head to make sure costs are down and the manufacturing environment is run efficiently. I have taken this daily job mentality to the rod shop as well, and last year’s project was to make a more efficient beveler for roughing out strips prior to heat treating and planing.

The roughing beveller that I started out with was very crude and to be honest, when I built it I had no idea how to not only build it for accuracy...


MillerA Tale of Two Rods
(by Ed Miller)

As an amateur rod builder, I’m always looking for the perfect fly rod, and therefore, I always look at new tapers. When Bob Milward’s book, Bamboo Fact, Fiction, and Flyrods, came out a few years back, he included a section on eight foot four weight rods with four tapers that were drastically different but performed well in Bob’s estimation. All the tapers were modifications of existing tapers. He listed them on page 91, as A, B, C and D. The A was derived from the Paul Young Para 15, slimmed down; the B was based on Garrison straight tapers; the C was a fast taper which sounded like it was inspired by Powell; and the D was a “classic step down” which Bob said felt light in hand...


SpezioRodmaking 101, Part II
(by Tony Spezio)

In the last issue we got up to heat treating the strips. If you have an oven this is straightforward. Heat the oven to the temperature you want and put the strips in the oven for the time you want.

I get my oven to 425 degrees F. This is  above  what  I  use  to heat-treat. I use the MD Fixtures...


All About Grits
(by Brent Beach)

This article discusses the abrasives I use for sharpening hand tools (plane blades, chisels, etc).

First, we should have some General discussion of abrasives.

What are abrasives?

Abrasives are either naturally occurring or synthetic minerals. The molecules of the mineral align into lattices (regular three dimensional arrays) with very strong bonds, producing crystals with hard and sharp corners. The most commonly occurring natural abrasives are oxides of aluminum....


CogburnThe Tubeless Dip Tube
(by Onis Cogburn)

The most professional finish for a rod is obtained from either a dip tube or a drip tube, however, if you are making small numbers of rods, the varnish begins to set up before more than a few rods are finished. The following solution is my answer to this problem.

Bob Kambeitz published The “Bottle and Ballon” Method of Finishing Bamboo, in The Planing Form Newsletter, issue number 7, Jan./Feb. 1991.  The article was also published in the Best of the Planing Form. Bob describes a method of finishing bamboo....


BogartMaking Step-Down Ferrules
         (by James E. (JED)
                Dempsey & Chris

When I first attempted to make ferrules, there was no real primer on how to make step-down ferrules. I ended up learning by trial and error with a few pointers along the way. I am not a trained machinist but today I feel competent to make ferrules equal to anyones. There are a lot of reasons to make your own ferrules. My reason is that I liked the proportions and style of certain ferrules and I couldn’t buy them. The last article chronicled the learning experience of obtaining Nickel Silver tubing. Then came the learning experience of the ins and outs of drawing your own NS tubing. This is a path that some have traveled...


ArguelloJoe’s Rod Shop Tutorials -
     Splitting & Staggering
          (by Joe Arguello)

Well, the best place to start off is with the tools (Photo 01).

We need to cut the culm in half...

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